South Carolina Staple

After my Granny's funeral I spent a week in Charleston trying to help my Aunt sort through the complete mess of paperwork that happens when someone passes away.  After numerous trips to the bank, the pharmacy and road trips up and down the roads that used to be the South Carolina highway system to distribute things to relatives living and dead it was time to go home. Right before I got on the plane to return to Houston we went to an all you can eat buffet. My family was not going to let me leave hungry, or even less than bloated.  And Grandpop just loved a buffet.  

There were numerous surreal moments that week, but this one was perhaps the most mimicking of a sitcom.  As we sat there, senior lady after senior lady filed by our table to offer her condolences or to say ‘hi’ to Grandpop.  I didn’t know any of them, nor had any of them attended the funeral.  I don't even think my Aunt  knew most of them and my Aunt knows everyone.  Grandpop left the table for another go-round at the buffet and my Aunt leaned in and said in a hushed tone ‘Now, Morgan, I don’t want you to be upset.  But the reasons these old ladies keep circling is because not only is there a lack of senior men their age  but...’ pause, look from side to side, more hushed, ‘Grandpop can still drive.’ Pause.  ’Which makes him a real catch.‘  While I was slightly stunned I tried not to act so. And it made sense. I was aware of the senior male to female ratio/deficit, and after this last round of eye surgery, yes, he could drive again.  ‘Do they read the obituaries?‘  My grandparents had read the obits everyday for years making their comments on the departed, and, depending on the level of recognition, Granny had a stock pile of cards in her dresser squirreled away for such an event. Charleston used to be a much, much smaller town.  ‘How do they know?‘  ‘Probably they read them.  They don’t mean any harm.‘    Seriously?  Yes, seriously.  And with that comment, a look over my shoulder witnessed another older lady tossing off a wave from across the room.  

Grandpop apparently knew the game.  He didn’t waste much time, he got out his best casserole recipe and hit the church picnic/get-together/bingo circuit in search of a companion.  By the next time I visited he had all sorts of people retuning his casserole dishes with his name affixed with a piece of tape to the bottom.  Grandpop’s signature dish was mac-n-cheese.  He had received so many compliments on it he was starting to brag about it.  ‘Might be the best in Charleston County.’  I kept after him about the secret.  ‘What makes it so good?’ He would not not give it up he’d act as if his hearing had failed and he had not heard my question.  He would do this by lifting his head, look straight at the ceiling, while resting one hand firmly on something, like a countertop or stair railing, clamp his teeth together and let out a hum like sound.  His vision might have been sporadic but his hearing was fine.

Well, one day, before some family gathering or another I innocently found his secret macaroni recipe.  It was in the trash.  It was labeled ‘Piggly Wiggly frozen macaroni and cheese’, two wrappers worth.  Apparently he doctored it with some additional cheddar and milk.  Well, who blames him?  He wasn’t wrong, it was good and he was smart to shroud the secret.  

Turns out there are plenty of Coker family cooking secrets.  At my cousin Amy’s 30th birthday my cousin Sonny brought the baked beans.  His comment about them when asked for the secret to perfect baked beans?  “Why? I mean, why would you make your own when Bush’s has perfected them?’  He had a point, one I follow to this day.  Although following Grandpop’s lead, I doctor those beans with a little garlic and maple syrup, thus making them my secret Bush’s baked beans.

Well I have my own Coker family cooking secret.  I don’t make shrimp and grits the South Carolina way, nope, somehow I have come to Spanish-ize our shrimp and grits.  I know, I know, it’s not traditional and for all my pontificating about Maryland crab cakes I sound like a big, fat phony.  But it’s the truth and it is a regular visitor to our dinner table.  One Jim really enjoys. Hopefully it would not have caused Grandpop too much dismay, but I suspect it may have.  He did prefer his grits with, as he said ‘grease’. He loved shrimp too.  But it’s OK to cheat. Sometimes.

Spanish Shrimp & Grits - Serves 4

Polenta

1 cup coarse corn meal

2 cups milk (or cream)

2 + 1 cups water

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup parmesan (optional)

Smoked Paprika Shrimp

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

3 teaspoons dried oregano

1.5 teaspoons smoked paprika

1 pinch cayenne

1 teaspoon dried roasted garlic (I realize this is an esoteric spice, you can substitute 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder or for a stronger flavor 2 crushed cloves of garlic) 

1/2 cup diced fire roasted tomatoes

1 tablespoon white wine 

1 ounce jamon serrano chopped in to 1" bits 

2 green onions, sliced - green and white parts

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon olive oil

salt

Preheat the oven to 350.

For the polenta, combine the milk, water and salt and bring to a boil. Whisk in the cornmeal and let simmer for 30-40 minutes, whisking often. Keep the extra cup or so of water warm on a burner and add as needed to loosed the polenta while cooking.

Heat a cast iron skillet on the stove over a medium heat, add the jamon and cook until crispy, about 4 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.

Toss the shrimp in a bowl with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the oregano, paprika, cayenne, garlic and salt. Place the shrimp in the seasoned cast iron skillet and cook in the oven for 4 minutes. Remove. Turn the oven up to 450. Turn the shrimp over in the pan, add in the tomatoes and the wine. Return the pan to the oven for 5 more minutes.

About 5 minutes prior to serving, whisk the butter into the polenta. If cheese is desired, whisk that in as well.

Spoon the polenta in to bowls, spoon the shrimp mixture on top and sprinkle with the jamon, parsley and green onions.

Spoiler Alert

I have not been blogging lately because I have been busy practicing. Practicing recipes for my friends’ Kasia and Danny’s wedding shower. They have been dating for, long enough. I have planned Kasia’s shower over and over again for all of that enough. I have nighttime menus, brunch menus, girls only menus, couples shower menus, I’ve even planned menus at restaurants and seating arrangements too. If you need a shower menu just ask me, I can help. When asked by the other hosting couples to come up with a menu for the actual shower, a couples stock the wine cellar themed shower, I chucked all my menus and came up with a new one. So Jim and I have been furiously practicing, cooking and eating a lot things over and over again trying to get everything the best we can. The fridge is engorged with leftovers. The dogs are quite sated. When we finally get to this party we are going to be seriously burned out our food. But it does give us the opportunity to take cooking very seriously.

The menu is Spanish-y, all hors d’oeuvres, passed and stationary. One item I really want to serve is croquettas. In the interest of time and labor it had been my plan to purchase them. After scouring at least 6 different stores and most of Buford Highway I could not find anything. I had luck on the internet, but 80 croquettas cost $50 plus another $40 for shipping. Seemed extravagant for some flour and milk. With only a week and a half to spare I told Jim, ‘We have no choice but to make these things ourselves’. I spent an hour or two researching croquetta recipes on the internet. They had to be pescatarian friendly to meet the guests of honor dietary restrictions. I did not like the vegetarian recipes I found and was not in the mood to mess around with salt cod; I was wary of using mushrooms and their water logged selves on my first trip out, so I decided to use a standard recipe for jamon croquettas I had found on both the Washington Post website and at latienda.com and I would substitute the meat for canned tuna. I left work early and found everything I needed in my pantry, 10 minutes later I had croquetta dough? paste? filling? resting in the fridge. I went for a run and a trip to the bank, came back rolled them into croquetta form and 15 minutes later plopped them in the freezer, went to the grocery store, picked up the kids from camp, came home. Jim’s son asked ‘What’s for dinner?’ I said ‘Remember the croquettas you had at Jessica and George’s restaurant in Baltimore? We’re having those, with chicken mole and salad’. Squeals of delight all around. Jim asked ‘When did you make croquettas?’ I replied ‘Really it wasn’t nearly as labor intensive as I expected.’

I rolled half in bread crumbs and half in panko and we all took the Pepsi challenge to see which was preferred. The children DEVOURED these things and asked for more until they were all gone. The testing and tweaking continued over several days; my hair might permanently smells like fry oil but I think it's ready.

Tuna Croquettas with Smoked Paprika Aioli - Makes 12 +/-

Croquettas

• 1/2 of an onion chopped finely (about 1/2 cup)
• 5 oz. can tuna in oil (drained)
• 2 anchovies in oil
• 1 cup milk
• 4 tablespoons flour
• 1 pinch smoked paprika
• pepper
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 teaspoons chopped parsley
• 1 cup bread crumbs
• 2 egg whites
• 2 tablespoons water

Aioli

• 2 egg yolks (room temperature)
• 1 cup olive oil
• 3 tablespoons lemon juice (room temperature)
• 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
• 3 tablespoons canned chopped fire roasted tomatoes (I find these at Whole Foods or the YDFM)
• 1-2 cloves garlic minced, about 1/2 teaspoon

Saute the onion in olive oil, until translucent, about 10 minutes. Halfway through cooking the onions add the anchovies and let them dissolve by mashing them, making a paste and evenly distributing them throughout the onions. Add the flour 1 tablespoon at a time by whisking it in, making sure the prior tablespoon of flour is incorporated before adding the next. Next add the milk by whisking it in. Heating the milk so it is at room temperature will make it less likely to crack the roux, I microwaved mine for 20 seconds. Like the flour, I add this in 3-4 steps, making sure the prior dose is incorporated before adding the next. Once incorporated cook for about 1 minute. Remove from heat and add in the tuna, paprika, parsley and pepper. Place in the fridge to cool for 2-3 hours. Once chilled, make an egg wash with the egg whites and water, whisk with a fork until combined. Using about a two teaspoon sized piece of dough roll into oblong dumplings, roll in bread crumbs, then egg wash, bread crumbs again, place on a plate covered with wax or parchment paper. When all are assembled place in freezer on plate with wax paper about another 2 hours, at this point they can be fried or stored in a freezer bag for another time. Heat vegetable oil in a pan about 1/2 an inch deep to about 300 degrees. Fry croquettas turning once, about 3 minutes total, drain on paper towels.

To make the sauce, add the egg yolks and tomatoes to a blender with a tablespoon of the oil, start on low, stream in the oil and spices, increase speed to medium, then add the lemon juice. Blend for about a minute or two until it becomes a mayonnaise.

Notes: The aioli will accommodate 2-3 orders of croquettas.

For the sake of uniformity and presentation I used an actual teaspoon (which held 2 a teaspoon measurement) for scooping the dough, then I boxed it by pressing on the sides and top and forming them to the width of my palm.

I don't like being accosted by raw garlic, it ruins my day. I usually roast mine in the oven with a little olive oil so it softens the garlic and the flavor and then use I it in any recipe calling for raw garlic.