Sway with Me

I was exposed to a lot of new dishes, well new to me, while in Ohio with Jim this summer: tater-tot potato salad, pretzels with cool whip salad and beef manhattans. While all of these dishes require further explanation there was one dish that was inspiring. It is a dish I have known my whole life and you have too. Canned peaches with cottage cheese. My sister-in-law ordered it. It was a ‘didyoujustreallyorderthat?’ moment. I cannot tell you the last time I saw that dish, I suspect it was on a conveyor belt in the 1980s.

Sometimes this dish comes on a wilted piece of lettuce and maybe with a maraschino cherry on top. Who came up with this? Why is it comfort food? Is it dessert or is it a salad? I find this dish bizarre but people love it and it certainly endures decades of food fads. So, I’ve reworked it, dare I say modernized it? Hopefully my sister-in-law will try it. Much like the original it isn’t dessert and it isn't truly savory either. I don’t really know what it is besides good.

Peach-Basil-Goat Cheese Galette - Serves 6

Pate Brisee (adapted from the Bouchon cookbook)

2 1/4 cups flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

8 ounces (2 stick or 16 tablespoons) cold, unsalted butter

1/4 cup ice water

1/2 teaspoon of lemon zest

flour

Goat Cheese Filling

4 oz. goat cheese

6 tablespoons whole milk ricotta cheese

1 large egg, beaten

2 tablespoons basil chopped

Peach Topping

2 large firm peaches (skins removed)

1 teaspoon sugar
juice of half a lemon
1 tablespoon basil chopped
1 egg white beaten (egg wash)

Make the dough a day ahead. Place 1 cup flour in salt in standing mixer with dough hook attachment, turn on low and add the butter in a handful at a time, in about 4 batches, increase to medium speed and when butter is incorporated, stop machine, scrape down sides or dislodge dough from mixing arm, turn on to low again and slowly add in remaining flour, followed by the water, mix until just incorporated. Remove and divide in to two, wrap one disk in plastic wrap and freeze for later use. Return the other half to the mixer and add in the lemon zest, turn on low until incorporated. Shape in to a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Boil a small pot of water. Score an ‘X’ in the bottom of each peach place them in boiling water turn off the heat, put the lid on and let them sit in the hot water for 2 minutes.. Place in an ice bath to cool. Remove the skins from the peaches. Slice the peaches in quarters, slice in to 1/8” slices and place in a bowl, toss with sugar, lemon juice and basil.

Using a mixer combine the goat cheese, ricotta and egg. Fold in the basil.

Roll out the dough on a floured surface to 10’-12” in diameter, place on parchment on a baking sheet, spread the cheese mixture in the center of the dough staying clear of the outer 1.5”. Arrange peaches on top. Roughly fold over the edges and brush with the egg wash. Bake at 375 for 35 minutes. Remove from oven let cool on the baking sheet on wire rack. Take care when transferring it to a plate or cutting board, the pastry is very flaky.

Sweet Peaches!

I am going to rip the band-aid off - I don’t like Georgia peaches. That’s exactly what I said and I realize it’s blasphemy and I am willing to take the backlash for saying it. I thought there was something wrong with me. It hit me one day while standing in the peach section at the YDFM trying to figure out if I would be considered less of a sinner if I bought the New Jersey ones, because they aren’t as far away from here as the California ones, but I really wanted the California ones. Perhaps the ones from Alabama ? Nope, they’re almost just as lame. That’s when it just fell out of my mouth - ‘You know, I don’t like Georgia peaches’. Luckily Jim loves me unconditionally and to my surprise he concurred, ‘Me either.’ Phew, it’s not just me.

The Georgia peaches I have had are mealy and mushy. When you bite into them they sort of ooze, the skin doesn’t so much snap back as it acquiesces. Whereas their California cousins are firm, tart, sweet and delicious. The California peach is taught, that peach goes to the gym everyday; the Georgia one is flabby from sitting on the porch all day eating pimento cheese and boiled P-nuts.

I know I am not supposed to support an agrarian culture as far away as California in this locavore crazed day and age. And I’m sure it’s unGeorgia-otic to trash talk our major cash crop. But I’m sorry; until someone can get me a decent Georgia peach I am going to shamefully, when no one is looking, sneak those California peaches in my basket.

‘ Georgia Caprese’ Salad – Serves 4

2 peaches firm but ripe - sliced (I prefer California white peaches)

3 oz. goat cheese - sliced into disks

1 cup Arugula (a handful really)

2 teaspoons +/- balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons +/- extra virgin olive oil

12-16 basil leaves

Place arugula on plates, then stack, in layers, starting with peaches, basil, goat cheese. I usually go for 3 layers of peaches and basil and 2 layers of cheese. Drizzle each salad with 1/4 teaspoon oil and 1/4 teaspoon vinegar.

Notes: I find it’s easiest to cut the goat cheese into circles as opposed a crumbly, sticky messes, by removing it from the package and placing it in the freezer for 10-15 minutes, then I use waxed dental floss to ‘slice’ it.