South Carolina Staple

After my Granny's funeral I spent a week in Charleston trying to help my Aunt sort through the complete mess of paperwork that happens when someone passes away.  After numerous trips to the bank, the pharmacy and road trips up and down the roads that used to be the South Carolina highway system to distribute things to relatives living and dead it was time to go home. Right before I got on the plane to return to Houston we went to an all you can eat buffet. My family was not going to let me leave hungry, or even less than bloated.  And Grandpop just loved a buffet.  

There were numerous surreal moments that week, but this one was perhaps the most mimicking of a sitcom.  As we sat there, senior lady after senior lady filed by our table to offer her condolences or to say ‘hi’ to Grandpop.  I didn’t know any of them, nor had any of them attended the funeral.  I don't even think my Aunt  knew most of them and my Aunt knows everyone.  Grandpop left the table for another go-round at the buffet and my Aunt leaned in and said in a hushed tone ‘Now, Morgan, I don’t want you to be upset.  But the reasons these old ladies keep circling is because not only is there a lack of senior men their age  but...’ pause, look from side to side, more hushed, ‘Grandpop can still drive.’ Pause.  ’Which makes him a real catch.‘  While I was slightly stunned I tried not to act so. And it made sense. I was aware of the senior male to female ratio/deficit, and after this last round of eye surgery, yes, he could drive again.  ‘Do they read the obituaries?‘  My grandparents had read the obits everyday for years making their comments on the departed, and, depending on the level of recognition, Granny had a stock pile of cards in her dresser squirreled away for such an event. Charleston used to be a much, much smaller town.  ‘How do they know?‘  ‘Probably they read them.  They don’t mean any harm.‘    Seriously?  Yes, seriously.  And with that comment, a look over my shoulder witnessed another older lady tossing off a wave from across the room.  

Grandpop apparently knew the game.  He didn’t waste much time, he got out his best casserole recipe and hit the church picnic/get-together/bingo circuit in search of a companion.  By the next time I visited he had all sorts of people retuning his casserole dishes with his name affixed with a piece of tape to the bottom.  Grandpop’s signature dish was mac-n-cheese.  He had received so many compliments on it he was starting to brag about it.  ‘Might be the best in Charleston County.’  I kept after him about the secret.  ‘What makes it so good?’ He would not not give it up he’d act as if his hearing had failed and he had not heard my question.  He would do this by lifting his head, look straight at the ceiling, while resting one hand firmly on something, like a countertop or stair railing, clamp his teeth together and let out a hum like sound.  His vision might have been sporadic but his hearing was fine.

Well, one day, before some family gathering or another I innocently found his secret macaroni recipe.  It was in the trash.  It was labeled ‘Piggly Wiggly frozen macaroni and cheese’, two wrappers worth.  Apparently he doctored it with some additional cheddar and milk.  Well, who blames him?  He wasn’t wrong, it was good and he was smart to shroud the secret.  

Turns out there are plenty of Coker family cooking secrets.  At my cousin Amy’s 30th birthday my cousin Sonny brought the baked beans.  His comment about them when asked for the secret to perfect baked beans?  “Why? I mean, why would you make your own when Bush’s has perfected them?’  He had a point, one I follow to this day.  Although following Grandpop’s lead, I doctor those beans with a little garlic and maple syrup, thus making them my secret Bush’s baked beans.

Well I have my own Coker family cooking secret.  I don’t make shrimp and grits the South Carolina way, nope, somehow I have come to Spanish-ize our shrimp and grits.  I know, I know, it’s not traditional and for all my pontificating about Maryland crab cakes I sound like a big, fat phony.  But it’s the truth and it is a regular visitor to our dinner table.  One Jim really enjoys. Hopefully it would not have caused Grandpop too much dismay, but I suspect it may have.  He did prefer his grits with, as he said ‘grease’. He loved shrimp too.  But it’s OK to cheat. Sometimes.

Spanish Shrimp & Grits - Serves 4

Polenta

1 cup coarse corn meal

2 cups milk (or cream)

2 + 1 cups water

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup parmesan (optional)

Smoked Paprika Shrimp

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

3 teaspoons dried oregano

1.5 teaspoons smoked paprika

1 pinch cayenne

1 teaspoon dried roasted garlic (I realize this is an esoteric spice, you can substitute 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder or for a stronger flavor 2 crushed cloves of garlic) 

1/2 cup diced fire roasted tomatoes

1 tablespoon white wine 

1 ounce jamon serrano chopped in to 1" bits 

2 green onions, sliced - green and white parts

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon olive oil

salt

Preheat the oven to 350.

For the polenta, combine the milk, water and salt and bring to a boil. Whisk in the cornmeal and let simmer for 30-40 minutes, whisking often. Keep the extra cup or so of water warm on a burner and add as needed to loosed the polenta while cooking.

Heat a cast iron skillet on the stove over a medium heat, add the jamon and cook until crispy, about 4 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.

Toss the shrimp in a bowl with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the oregano, paprika, cayenne, garlic and salt. Place the shrimp in the seasoned cast iron skillet and cook in the oven for 4 minutes. Remove. Turn the oven up to 450. Turn the shrimp over in the pan, add in the tomatoes and the wine. Return the pan to the oven for 5 more minutes.

About 5 minutes prior to serving, whisk the butter into the polenta. If cheese is desired, whisk that in as well.

Spoon the polenta in to bowls, spoon the shrimp mixture on top and sprinkle with the jamon, parsley and green onions.

The Daydream

When we couldn’t sleep or felt totally wronged by the college cafeteria, my college roommate, Val, and I would describe favorite dishes from favorite restaurants to each other.  Sounds a little torturous, I know, especially after we probably had some Sysco canned green beans for dinner.  But it always did the trick, Val and I would drift off with visions of crepes and sushi all through our heads.

Val grew up in Brookline and had another outpost in the West Village at her Dad’s house.  She had also spent a summer in Aix.  She had a delicious food list.  Mine wasn’t too bad either.  Baltimoreans don’t be so surprised. No other place has our crab cakes, steamed crabs, Tio Pepe’s pine nut roll, Mary Sue easter eggs, Italian pastry shops on Bel Air road, our cheesy Baltimore version of Little Italy, soft shelled crab sandwiches, mussels, Berger cookies, crab chips, the treasures inside Cross Street and Lexington Markets, shall I continue?  All of these items are unique to Baltimore.  Sure you can get a crab cake anywhere, but it probably doesn’t taste remotely as good as the ones in Baltimore.  And while you also might be able to ferret out a soft shelled crab I bet it’s in a restaurant with a white table cloth not on a piece of white bread at a diner in Remington for $5. And if you live in Baltimore I suspect you tend to take all of this for granted.  I did and now I spend my time trying to recreate many of these items.

One other Baltimore tradition is the shrimp salad sandwich.  Shrimp salad is always served at bridal showers, with a side of croissants from Costco.  But more traditionally it is served on white bread with lettuce and tomato.  Eddie’s of Roland Park is the bench mark for shrimp salad sandwiches.  Eddie’s is the bench mark for a lot of things, I don’t know any other grocery store where you can have a grown man follow you around the store and place items in your cart, because selecting groceries is that exhausting?  Their deli is amazing and run like science lab, exacting, precise and very, very serious.  And if they don’t actually wear lab coats they wear something extremely similar.  Whenever I visit Baltimore I make a point to get a shrimp salad sandwich from Eddie’s.  I daydream about this sandwich.

Like crab cakes, everyone in Baltimore has a shrimp salad recipe.  I have tried to make mine as much like Eddie’s as possible.  They manage to keep their shrimp whole, I find they stay on the bread better if cut in half lengthwise.  You can guarantee after all this talk I am having this sandwich for lunch today.

Shrimp Salad for Two

3/4 lb. shrimp (30-40 count shrimp)

1/4 cup mayonnaise

4 teaspoons diced celery

1 tablespoon green onion, green part only sliced thinly

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon Old Bay, or your preferred Chesapeake Bay seasoning

1/8 teaspoon dried parsley

1 tiny pinch celery seed

salt and pepper

Heat 1-2 cups of water to a boil over a steamer basket, add the shrimp and steam until just cooked, about 4 minutes.  Cool on ice.  When the shrimp are cool, peel and devein them, then slice (or not) them lengthwise.  Combine the shrimp and the remaining ingredients and chill for 1 or up to 24 hours.

Fideos!

So I just discovered Amanda Hesser’s food blog. A food blog for food bloggers (or the food obsessed); I am addicted. It's full of useful information, arranged in a usable and fun way. Every week they have a contest. Last week’s was for Halloween treats. They haven’t announced the winner yet but I’m routing for the cook that made severed finger cookies, with fake blood and almonds for finger nails. (!)

This week’s contest is for paella. I’m not a big rice fan so I submitted fideos. I’m also not a culinary anthropologist either but my understanding is fideos are more commonly used in Southern Spain, feel free to correct me. My friend George introduced me to them while we were in Spain. To me they really have a better flavor as well. So, no big story here, check out the website and check out my recipe.

Smoky Seafood Fideos - Serves 4

1 - 7 ounce bag fideos (or broken angel hair pasta)

2.5 cups seafood stock

1 cup white wine

1/2 cup water or vegetable broth

1 medium Spanish onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, smashed

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 bay leaf

1 pinch cayenne

1 nutmeg seed - 5 shavings across a mircoplane

1 - 14 ounce can diced fire roasted tomatoes

200 mg ground saffron (or medium sized pinch of threads)

1 bay leaf

salt + pepper

12 clams

12 mussels

12 shrimp

3 squid tubes cut in to rings

1/2 cup frozen peas

3 tablespoons parsley

1 lemon

Olive oil

salt and pepper

Coat a pan in olive oil, over medium/low heat add fideos and sautee until they become a warm brown color, about 6-7 minutes, using a slotted spoon remove them from the pan and set aside. Reduce the heat add more olive oil to the pan, if needed, add onion and sautee for 5 minutes until almost translucent, add garlic and sautee for another 3 minutes. Add in smoked paprika, oregano, cayenne and sautee for another minute. Increase the heat to medium add tomatoes and bring to a simmer for 3 minutes, shave in nutmeg, return the fideos to the pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Meanwhile bring stock, wine, water and bay leaf to a boil in another pot, reduce to simmering, adding the seafood one species at a time and removing from the pan and reserving. In the stock cook shrimp 2-3 minutes until just pink, squid 1-2 minutes until just prior to opaque, clams a maximum of 6 minutes, discard unopened ones, mussels up to 4 minutes, discard unopened ones. Allow broth to return to a slow boil in between batches. Remove seafood and set aside. Add the saffron to broth and let ‘bloom’ for 2 minutes. Turn the heat off of the broth. Slowly add stock, in 3-4 batches (like risotto) to the fideos , let simmer with broth about 20 minutes, when the pasta has reached desired consistency add in peas and seafood, reheat seafood, let steam for 2 minutes covered. Prior to serving squeeze the lemon over the ‘paella” and sprinkle with parsley. Serve.